Why There Aren’t Single-Origin Espressos
I raised the question in a recent post of why it is that you can go into most any coffee shop and know exactly where your cup of joe was sourced, but it’s never really clear where espressos come from. I had a chance yesterday to ask David Diorio of La Prima, and it turns out that it’s because of the nature of the drink.
There are two basic types of coffee beans: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica beans are recognized to be of a higher quality, but they are more difficult to grow: the trees only grow at altitudes above 3,000 feet; and they are more disease-prone than Robusta trees are. As a result, Robusta beans are easy to find: they’re used in Maxwell House, Folgers, etc.: the types of coffee where quantity is more important than quality, and you’d better drink it hot because once it cools down, the flavor profile changes to nasty. Coincidentally, Robusta beans also have a higher caffeine level than Arabica.
In order to meet the definition of what it means to be a classic Italian espresso, the coffee that is used to make the drink should be a blend of at least five different beans, one of which must be a Robusta. The beans are blended in order to take advantage of their different qualities: the body of one, the acidity of another, the flavor of a third, etc. What the Robusta beans bring to the table in the mix is more than just the caffeine kick that an espresso offers: they are also in large part responsible for the crema, the frothy foam that is found atop a well-made espresso.
I can tell you from personal experience that freshness also has a big impact on the development of crema. An Arabica bean that has been roasted within the past 24-48 hours develops a beautiful head of crema; the same bean a week later won’t perform as well.
La Prima offers two espresso blends that fit into the traditional definition of an Italian Espresso. The one I’ve seen most often is La Prima Espresso, which they describe as “…a darker roast with a richer, fuller flavor. Consider this as more of an American style espresso.” If you want the real deal Italian espresso, seek out the Miscela Bar (which I don’t believe I’ve knowingly had), which La Prima describes as being “Roasted in the classic Italian style and sweeter than most American espressos with a smooth and rich crema.”
Their third espresso is an organic espresso blend, which contains only three beans, all of which are Arabica. I don’t believe I’ve tried this one either–but what I’d really like to do is to try all three in one sitting so I can really detect the differences for myself.
June 28th, 2008 at 5:18 pm
If you’re like me, have the three at one go and you might be able to really tell the difference, but sitting still long enough to take notes on it will be another matter…
July 7th, 2008 at 1:47 pm
We typically buy the La Prima to make at home. But, by accident on Saturday, scrambling to get two cranky kids a hot chocolate (which, if you’ve never had at La Prima, is very highly recommended), I accidentally picked up the Miscela Bar. The first time my wife and I had it, didn’t care for it. But after my second little cup, I changed my mind. Either is very good, and I may even prefer the Miscela now.